Yalumba's wizardry with Viognier is declared most profoundly in the coolest seasons, of which 2023 is one of the finest since its vines were planted in 1980. I love its cool energy and elegant restraint, and yet its confidence in projecting inimitable varietal identity in apricot kernel, ginger and pink grapefruit. Texturally, this is a marvel, at once zesty and vibrant and at the same time mesmerisingly silky, slippery and succulent, concluding with the perfect clip of impeccably polished phenolic tension. Go long on this one.

Yalumba's Virgilius Viognier remains a benchmark for the variety in Australia. Expressive but so finely focused and precise, nothing blown out of proportion, no mean feat with this persnickety variety. Tautly stretched citrus fruits with a whiff of apricot kernel and hints of white flowers, crushed stone, almond meal, white flowers, some distant marzipan and clover blossom. Stony-pure on the palate with a lovely bright mineral cadence and a dry, enduring finish.

Unquestionably Australia’s flagship Viognier, and has been for many years, the Virgilius sits comfortably with the best made on the planet (and is usually significantly better buying). From the Eden Valley, this comes from the team’s oldest Viognier vines – they first planted this variety back in 1980 when there seemed every chance that it would slide into extinction. This vintage spent ten months in French oak. A pale lemon hue, this is beautifully aromatic. No escaping the grape though – Viognier is as distinctive as Gewürztraminer, when well made. There is ginger and lemongrass here, but most especially apricot, along with mandarins, nectarines and a touch of orange rind. We also have aromas of spices and a touch of limes. Such balance and length! A superb Viognier/Virgilius, which surely has at least six to ten years ahead of it.

Attractive aromas of lavender, white nectarines, orange blossoms, fresh apricots and talcum powder. The palate is full-bodied with finely balanced phenolics and bright acidity that carry powerful flavors of lemon curd, rosewater, kaffir limes and peaches. Well balanced and powerful, with underlying tension. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Heady aromas of stone fruit, ripe melon, honey, magnolia, nuts and spice. Rich, opulent, concentrated and mouth-filling, with a drive of stone fruit, nutty spice and creaminess. Long, layered, balanced and sophisticated gear.