The 2013 Vat 1 Semillon is perfumed and floral, with nary a hair out of place here. This is sleek and streamlined, perfect in its way. It is light and detailed, fresh and distinct. It has a balanced ledger of almond meal, pressed flowers, tatami mat/straw, saline threads of acidity, pear skin, cumin, scratched yuzus, bay leaf and Murraya (orange jessamine). The texture is silky, so silky, almost slippery, without being viscose. This is unutterably good. This is me—this is the wine I want to drink. 11.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

The grapes came from two vineyards, one planted in '23, the younger one in '69, both on well drained sandy soils. This is classic stuff, the Tyrrell family with generational experience and an embarrassment of richness with its holdings of old vines, here resulting in lime/lemon/talc flavours and texture. Drink by 2033.

Bright, medium to light-yellow colour. A whiff of free sulfur comes off at first sniff, then there's lemony herbal freshness, discreet and refined with no single aroma dominating. There's just a whisper of toast starting up, but the wine is reserved for its age, promising to live long if cellared. Taut, dry, savoury and restrained. An excellent wine with a long future ahead of it. (5 Gold medals) . Drink: 2018-2028