This has deep, smoky notes and a quite tarry edge, too. The dark plums and black fruit pastilles are assertive here. Very succulent and long with freshness and composure. This is a very elegant Cornas. Excellent length.

This is brimming with steeped plum, blackberry and cassis notes, inlaid liberally with licorice root, singed juniper, tar and tobacco accents. A lingering echo of smoldering cast iron emerges on the grippy finish, along with a swath of warm humus details, giving this a dense and chewy feel. The core of fruit is massive, but this requires patience.

The 2016 Cornas is cut from the same cloth yet has slightly more density as well as structure. Crazy notes of incense, beef blood, plums, ground pepper, and blueberries all emerge from this perfumed, massively concentrated Cornas that has building tannins, a tight, chiseled mouthfeel, and a great, great finish.

No destemming as usual, fermented in concrete and aged in large, old oak barrels. A tasting of the four main component parts (La Petite Côte, Sabarotte, La Côte and Reynards) reveals a more classic expression than the very ripe 2015 vintage. Though still ripe, the Cornas terroir is in sharper focus this year, with each terroir clearly showing its character. Fresh, defined and floral aromatics abound, with ripe but chiselled, saline tannins and relatively high acidity. An elegant vintage with good Cornas typicality.

Possibly the cleanest Clape I have seen in some time, and not that that is a thing with this producer that for me that I yearn for, or that makes me have a quibble, but it is a notable comment to make. Usually the ‘rustic charm’ or ‘savoury edge’ is quite endearing and rewarding in Clape’s wines, but here, none, per se. From the former mayor of Cornas comes something a little different, let’s say. All whole bunches, fermented in concrete, off to old foudre for maturation.

Just ripe raspberries, faint smoke, clove, brambles and dried herbs in perfume. A rich scent. Flavours roll similarly, quite tight in the plait of suede tannins, the fruit characters lifted, a touch sweet but tempered with alpine herb, pepper and that light smoke (meaty) character. That little roughness of Clape texture is there, but freshness is too, the wine vibrant and juicy, concentrated and bright, a burr of gummy-pucker and stains the palate lightly through the finish. A character filled, satisfying and deeply detailed wine, yet high drinkability is here too. Damn stellar.