This brilliant Chardonnay will surely come to be ranked, not only amongst the best ever from this legendary estate, not only among the best from this thrilling region, but among the best Australia has ever made. This is Grand Cru quality at what has sadly become Village pricing. A profound Chardonnay destined to become a bucketlist wine.

A very pale lemon with a vaguely green hint running through it, this is pristine, intense, beautifully balanced and seamless. The oak has almost been completely absorbed, although it is fair to say that it'll probably look even better in twelve months. The wine is, however, immensely enjoyable now. The nose reveals hints of apricot flesh, limes, citrus skins, oatmeal, Madagascan vanilla, gentle touches of grilled cashews, stonefruits and jasmine. Such intensity but meshed with freshness, energy and elegance. Powerful but poised, there is incredible length here, seemingly never-ending, with laser-sharp acidity just one of the many components. There is complexity already evident, although one suspects it is a shadow of what is to come. The intensity never wavers for an instant over the full journey. Stunning stuff, it will still be magnificent in twenty years, likely even more so, and still have life ahead of it. Leeuwin have made some mindboggl(more...)

Light bright yellow, a very youthful colour for a 2023, and the bouquet is likewise fresh but also seriously detailed, with creamy lees, malt, nougat, beeswax and custard apple aromas, the palate similarly complex and profound, with a chew of oaky tannins that lingers on the aftertaste. Long, long carry. A very powerful chardonnay, searingly intense and strongly structured, and needing more time yet to come into full harmony. Outstanding.

2023 was a long, dry, mild season in Margaret River (certainly in the context of white wine), although there was some rain at the end of the season that, depending on the location of the vineyard, caused some challenges for some producers. From my viewpoint up in Perth (some 276 kilometers north), the season seemed to roll out in a most restrained fashion. I have been very excited to try the premium white from this season and indelibly curious about the premium reds.

Tasted as a barrel sample in January 2024, this 2023 Art Series Chardonnay is inchoate at this stage, but it shows all the finesse and precision of the year that I was expecting. At this point, it is floral and waxy and defined very much by lashings of aromatic pear in every way you like it: poached, baked or fresh cut. There's loads of time before this wine will be ready for release, but I feel we will be in for a treat.

Lime and finger lime, Solo! (though ideally don’t slam it down fast), fresh pineapple, pear, plenty of clove and ginger oak, aniseed, a light flinty smokiness, honey cashew and white flower perfume. It’s medium-bodied, there’s a richness to fruit and oak here, yet it stays tight and controlled, with pitch-perfect acidity, a light chalkiness to texture, closing with superb length. Power with precision. You can drink it now, sure, though ideally wait for all the components to mesh. It’s an outstanding release.