Peter Gago now describes Bin 707 as 'the Grange of cabernet' and its price is certainly heading this way (2019 was $650 and there was no 2020, so a jump to $800 represents the only significant price rise in the Penfolds release this year). But there's no doubt this is a vintage with the stature and endurance to support his association, with more than 50% sourced from Coonawarra in what he rightly considers one of the greatest seasons since 1991. The explosion of chalk mineral tannins, the brightness of acidity and the mesmerising confidence with which it holds its line and length in suspended animation make this one of the greatest and most enduring Bin 707s in the long lineage of this fabled label.

Great to see this famous wine back. The fruit comes from Coonawarra, the Barossa and Wrattonbully, so there is quite a deal of cooler climate fruit influence in here. It gets 100% new American oak for 16 months making it one of the most idiosyncratic Australian cabernets. An engaging mix of mulberry and raspberry underpinned by deeper blackcurrant notes. The tannins have an almost glistening character adding brightness and energy through the very long palate. But then there is a creamy spicy roasted meat character adding further to the complex weave of flavours. One of the very best I can recall since this great wine was re-introduced from 1976. Plush, opulent and powerful.

This stellar Cabernet sources its fruit from Coonawarra, Barossa and Wrattonbully. It spent 16 months in new American oak hogsheads. An opaque maroon colour, there are notes of dusty red earth here. Chocolate and tobacco leaves, soy, dried herbs, florals and aniseed. Hints of animal skins add to the complexity. There is serious intensity and focus, exemplary balance. With time in the glass, notes of both red and black fruits become ever more dominant, primarily blackcurrants and raspberries, backed by a slippery texture and satiny tannins with real persistence on a very long finish. Finesse and power. The nose is gorgeous, the palate even better. A twenty year proposition.