The nose is nothing short of glorious and it is, somewhat shockingly, completely unfurled and open with fresh-picked rose petals, fresh rolling tobacco, and handfuls of fresh earth. In fact, none of the tasting notes has any of the dried characteristics one finds in other vintages. It is majestic, commanding and full-bodied, but also lithe, athletic and certainly more ‘Burgundian’! And I have never thought this word, let alone written it. It is conversational and charming, and the tannins are fresh, fine-grained and imperial. They are certainly big and athletic, but they are also civilised, elegant and downright incredible. This is a perfect example of a perfect, near-drinking Grange. That said, I have no doubt it will run for at least three decades, too!

The ’21 Grange was undoubtedly a hard act to follow, but here we see a ’22 that is up for the challenge. Yes, there is an underlying power, the kind you expect from sourcing fruit from the big three – Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra – in what was essentially a cool vintage. But there is also a subtle elegance and moments when the lilt and carry of fine spices brings notes more akin to syrah than shiraz. The rise of blue fruits amid blackberries, cassis, black cherry sits comfortably with savoury leather and woodsmoke, roasted coffee, black olive, liquorice, dark chocolate, pepperberry and a lifted and arresting, aromatic spiciness. The palate offers a deep richness and plenty of flesh framed in firm, fine tannins – sturdy but not aggressively so. Sustained power meets a rising complex elegance.

There’s a brightness to this release, redcurrants and plums, red cherries even, semblances of dried herbs, saltbush, mace, peppercorns. Crushed ant character is apparent here both on the nose and on the palate but it rolls through with graphite and all that red brightness. Great tannin to this release. Great integration to the oak, which comes across like powdered milk chocolate but which has settled extraordinarily well. I kept coming back to the tannin of this wine. It has grunt for certain but it’s the spread; swallowing here is like watching a storm roll through in reverse. It just keeps cascading on, impacting as it goes. It’s a cooler year, it’s not a blockbuster, it’s more 1999 than 1998, but it has length and tannin like you wouldn’t believe and for that, I think it’s a ripper.

Single-region Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed with a portion fermented and matured on solids; eight months in French oak barriques (58% new, 31% one-year-old). Lovely depth from the outset with toasted nuts and stonefruit blossom tones sitting deep in the glass. The floral elements build into the perfume adding further prettiness. There’s a mineral element in the mix adding shape and intrigue, while the fruit emerges more with air in the form of white peach and nectarine. An underlay of flint adds to the array of complexity. It’s quite textural in the mouth — creamy and glossy — with nice concentration and structure to match. Cedar spice, green pear, toasted nuts, nectarine and a touch of preserved lemon salinity. The power through the finish is noteworthy, driving long with confidence and poise as saline-drenched acidity freshens and elongates. This is at once deep and driving, while also preserving a sense of levity and freshness. A classy wine. 2026 – 2066. 98 Points

75 years of Grange: hard to believe this icon has reached such an important milestone and is still going strong. A blend of 97% Shiraz and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 18 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads (300 L). Initially served from a magnum, it was extremely restrained on the nose, almost mysterious. We were then served the same wine from a standard 750 ml bottle for comparison. The 750 ml bottle proved just a little more forthcoming aromatically, while the magnum remained more reserved. Tightly packed wild mulberries, blueberries and blackcurrants, with a distinctive herbal note of freshly brewed Oolong tea leaves. The palates from both bottle formats ultimately revealed the same story: lively, fragrant fruit, with pomegranate, crunchy violet and beautifully polished yet mouth-watering tannins. The acidity cascades through the wine, the finish keeps unfolding, remaining fresh, lively, fine and enticing. The reward for patience will come with a few more years in bottle, especially for the magnum. 2028-2070. 98 Points