The shiraz is muscly and taut beneath the slip of viognier that sits atop. This is brawny and svelte at once – summer apricot, red licorice, blackberry, star anise and spice. I can't get away from the chermoula lamb vibe that this is giving off, perhaps it's just a good food suggest. The tannins are polished by the viognier, but retain and gravelly, brutish pitch. This is all curves and streamline, the shape of the wine commands time to let it unravel and straighten out. A class act, a wine for the ages – certainly it'll live for ages… picking up red raspberry and strawberry as it coasts along, it's really opening up – giving rise to the suggestion that the wines are compressed and tight right now. The Relic has a bounce and a chew about it – it's a little flick as it leaves the building, enough to yearn to get it back in – come back! We want more!

From the Hongell Vineyard, sees 1% viognier used. A very gentle seasoning. Big perfume, ripe berries, floral whiffs, sweet, turned earth character, jellied plum, blackcurrant pastilles. So much to sniff on. Supple, soft and juicy in the palate, though there's some tension in the texture and it finishes long, fanning out magnificently. A sense of poise and lift too. Wonderful, elegant, big-lush expression. Drink 2021 - 2036

Pumping out perfume, white flowers, blackcurrant jubes, spice, chocolate orange. Slick, supple silky tannin, rich dark juice-laden flavour, clean acidity, big aromatics and a mudslide of fine silty tannin on a long finish. Not my preferred style, but of undeniably high quality.