The 2009 Barolo Rocche is a solid, unwavering expression that brings the intensity meter even higher. Sweet red fruit, licorice, leather and moist pipe tobacco are some of the many layers that peel back from the bouquet. The balance, structure and persistence of the wine are all superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036.

If forced to inhabit a desert island that only served the wines of a single producer, I would want Luca Currado to be that supplier. He excels at everything he does from his castle perch at the heart of Castiglione Falletto. Despite the difficult 2009 season, his wines remain extraordinary. In fact, they are among the best I tasted from the vintage.

The 2009 Barolo Rocche is wonderfully open and expressive. Barolos from the best sites in Castiglione Falletto often have an uncanny ability to show very well young, yet also age gradually with a level of finesse that is hard to see when the wines are young. I will not be surprised if that is the case here. Sweet, silky tannins provide a backdrop for beautifully pure, articulate red fruit. In 2009 the Rocche is round, sweet and enveloping, even if it doesn't have the sheer thrill factor of the 2007. Still, it is a wonderful wine for the year.

Elegant and sinewy, offering rose, cherry, red berry, eucalyptus and licorice notes. The tannins are aggressive and firm, yet this remains balanced overall, finishing very long.