Sourced from the Messenger vineyard at the southern end of Coonawarra’s Terra Rossa strip, there’s a purity of fruit here to be celebrated without the artefact of winemaking stealing away its essence. White nectarine, a waft of lime with a raw almond creaminess opening proceedings, the palate echoing the aromas with tightly packed Chardonnay fruit, green pear notes included, oak way back in the rear, that nuttiness adding a natural richness to the flavours, no timber but a whisper of vanilla after 9 months in 28% new French oak. No mucking around with the fruit at all – it has a distinctive personality here and has been treated with the utmost respect by the most empathetic winemaking.

It’s hardly surprising that in good years, like 2025, Chardonnay in Coonawarra can perform exceptionally well. There’s a pure, pristine quality about the wine from the moment you take in the heady aromas of lemon curd, grapefruit, and that nectar and stone fruit, with just a faint touch of cashew. The palate has quite a bracing feel about it, but there is good flesh, with those stone fruit complexities and a creamy richness. It’s had nine months in oak, 28% of which was new French, and it was a mix of hogsheads and barriques. So the oak has been impeccably handled to highlight the fruit qualities. This is a mighty impressive wine.

The intensity of fruit flavour, the length, the flair and indeed the overall quality of this wine are all – excuse me for saying – surprisingly good. Chardonnay from Coonawarra doesn’t have the most electric of reputations. But here we see sunny peach and pear flavours of excellent dimension, and complex characters of hay, wheat, toasted cedar and tonic water. It’s as engaging as it is impressive. It’s gold medal territory. 93 points.

The second release of the Messenger Chardonnay from Wynns, this is fresh with a dancy energy thanks to a lemony and grapefruit drive. Seeing nine months in French oak (28% new), an evocative welcome mat is rolled out courtesy of white fleshed nectarines, pears and almond blossom that flow through to the flavour profile. A layered and vibrant palate is highlighted by lemon meringue, green mango, and brioche with sheets of creaminess. A hint of cashews on close leaves a fine, textured palate to muse over along with that citrusy tang. Beautiful drinking.