Shiraz in a good year, like 2024, is one of Coonawarra’s best “secrets”, its deep south ripening season responsible for wines of a cooler climate styling that might come as a surprise to many. Add here old vine parcels from a rare remaining section of the region’s original 1890s fruit colony plantings, and another 1920s block and we are blessed with a Shiraz of gentle nature, medium-weighted at just 13.4%abv crushed crimson berries, a faint waft of eucalypt-like native bush, a minerally dusting too. Sixteen months rest in new and seasoned French oak hogshead barrels have enhanced the grape’s naturally peppery spice note and floral lift, that initial minerality becoming chalky in the mouth feels, open enough however for a final rise in the red fruit profile. A Shiraz with encouraging depths boosted by a pleasing freshness. Do not pass up this variety’s great regional gifts.

A super season in Coonawarra has produced an outstanding example of this style. This is generous and intense, but delivers with that real Coonawarra elegance and poise that captures so much of the region and, in this case, a very good season. The colour is vibrant, with ready crimson tones. On the nose, you get a sort of ripe red fruit character which sits more in that cherry and pomegranate spectrum, sprinkled with a little pepperiness. The palate highlights Shiraz from a cooler climate, bursting with energy and life, with fine chalky tannins and well-managed oak, which is a combination of new and seasoned hogsheads and barriques, where it spent about 16 months. Supremely balanced and poised, with potential to cellar in the medium term. But this is such great drinking now.

There’s a fun bounciness to this Shiraz that’s very endearing. It’s giving… pink fruit pastilles, but eaten by a big man with big hands. Blueberry, chocolate-covered freeze-dried strawberries, Ribena, heavily steeped hibiscus and lavender oil. It will settle in a year or two, but I’ll admit, I’m enjoying how charged and loud it is right now. In the mouth, it comes in stages. First, vibrant blackberry, Japanese salted plums, snapped twigs and blackberry leaf tea, again heavily steeped. Then cool-climate freshness in the form of tart, beautiful acidity. Thirdly, the tannins come; chewy, firm, and there’s ple(eeeee)nty of them. They find their way into the corners of the mouth. Together, all these pieces combine into a long, deliberate line and sustained finish. It might sound cliché, or just typical, but a sprinkle of pepper sits neatly on top. A really powerful wine, with uber amounts of structure… and great value.

Always a personal favourite, this latest release is another cracker. Whilst Coonawarra is seen very much as a Cabernet region, its original fame was built on Shiraz. The vines which provide the fruit here are some of the oldest in the region and include grapes harvested from the Undoolya Vineyard, which was established at some stage between 1894 and 1897. Maturation was for sixteen months in a mix of new and older French oak hogsheads and barriques. Dark maroon in colour, there is concentration, plushness, depth and balance with very good oak integration throughout. The nose gives us aromas of black fruits, chocolate, dried herbs, mocha, licorice, cassis and a character reminiscent of chocolate mud cake, in the very best way. Impressive length here through to the fine powdery tannins, this is a delicious Shiraz which will drink wonderfully well over the next decade. And there is room to improve even further during that period.

This delivers. It’s plush, soft, rich, a little earthy, very rich fruited, spicy, nutty, chocolatey. All the good things. Big, bold perfume a welcome mat for similar to taste, all the flourish of generosity and deftly held together with strands of grippy, powdery tannin through a long, lip-smacking finish. A brightness in all this. Cool acidity flows harmoniously. Hits the spot.