From the time this wine was originally created by Brian Croser, it has been among the best releases each year. It’s sourced from Clare, and on the opening, you get an immediate hit of that engaging mix of lime and lemon zest. Deeper within, there’s a sort of richer orange and lemon pulpiness which adds some texture with other stone fruits. Yet that fine lingering acidity and precision and a slightly talcy acidity provide that linear mouthfeel but still with a textural touch. An excellent wine to drink now or whack away in the cellar for a good ten years.

The Yellow Label Hanlin Hill Riesling has long been one of the Clare Valley’s finest. A very light lemon hue, there are intense aromas on the nose with limes and apples and hints of sea breezes to the fore. Lovely citrus characters abound and there are also touches of stone fruits. The wine has a fine minerally backing. There is exemplary balance here, a bright line of acidity and excellent length. The finish has real persistence. The freshness and energy suggest it will drink beautifully now, but ensuring a few bottles are put away in the cellar for a decade or two will prove rewarding.