2016 wasn't hailed as a particularly great vintage, but, seven years in, this wine, from the historic winery's best old blocks, is singing. A heady, layered perfume of citrus pith, dried herb, beeswax, wool, flint and orchard blossom leads to a palate that's uniquely textured, like chalk dust swirled into melted wax and lifted by mouthwatering acidity. Bright, prickly lemon peel lingers on the long, slippery finish. Both delicate and powerful, it drinks beautifully now, but also has a long life ahead.

The business of describing, and rating baby Hunter Semillon is an interesting task. The wines are barely formed, and the descriptions of flavours do not exactly leap out of the glass, nor cause a flurry of typing. What I’m looking for, I guess, are the following fundamental things – balance, line and length, and no off flavours. If those are right, then the rest will follow. Oh, and maybe a bit of X-Factor too.

Fresh lime and lemon, a whiff of white peach, subtle white flower perfume. Light and fine, almost a vanilla fragrance in the mouth, crunch of ripe citrus, a little chalky texture, and then the big ticket item – a superb long finish – replete with latent flavour and power. Vat 1 delivers again.