The 2023 Old Vine Pinot Meunier leads with spiced cherry and lacy detailing: peppercorns, dried herbs, asphalt and graphite, petrichor and more. The wine is smooth and light, the sapid flavour penetrates the palate and gives a little indication of the future that could lie in wait. There is a very faint but attractive flaked milk chocolate character on the lips after the wine has gone. This is a beguiling wine, one that ages tremendously well but also gives enormous pleasure in the short term. In a word: spectacular. Grapes are sourced from vines planted in 1868, making this Australia's oldest planting of Pinot Meunier- and potentially of the world. Unreal. 12% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink date 2024 - 2054.

This release has its cards kept close to its chest. It's floral and strawberried and earthen, with potpourri and general (dried) herb notes littered throughout. It's also strung with fine-grained, minerally tannin, which, combined with the wine's herbal, tonic-like notes, is the perfect foil to the prettiness of the florals. And yet still it feels as though we're dealing with an infant here; it hasn't yet properly bloomed. When it does, it will be beautiful. This is on its way to being light, lacy and lovely, the latter from myriad angles.