Brown Magpie Wines was established in 1998 by Shane and Loretta Breheny at Modewarre, in the hinterland of the Great Ocean Road within the Geelong zone. The 20-hectare, north-facing estate was planted from 2001-2002 on a thin layer of sandy loam over bands of clay, running down to estuary marl and limestone. This single-vineyard dessert wine comes from estate Pinot Gris left on the vine to develop noble rot (Botrytis cinerea), which concentrates sugars and adds honeyed, marmalade complexity. The cool 2017 season was long and mild, allowing botrytis to set gradually and retaining the fresh acidity needed to balance the sweetness.

Botrytis-affected bunches were hand-picked in successive passes as the noble rot advanced, then whole-bunch pressed slowly to coax juice from the shrivelled, sugar-rich berries. The sweet must was cool-fermented in stainless steel, the fermentation arrested to leave substantial residual sugar and a luscious texture framed by lively acidity. Made in an Alsace-inspired style, the wine was bottled to preserve purity and freshness alongside notes of gingerbread, buttery pastry and stone fruit. It was released in 375ml half-bottles as a dessert style intended for cheeses and desserts.