Alongside the 2007 vintage mentioned above, I would now also include the 2008 – not quite as dense and powerful, but showing absolutely breathtaking precision and finesse. At Yquem specifically, and in Sauternes more broadly, wines have been produced in recent years with a level of quality and character unmatched anywhere in the world. 2007 stands as the current high point. Even though recent vintages of Sauternes can be enjoyed from the very first day, much like great Champagne, this wine should still be given time to rest. With age, these wines develop extraordinary complexity – as seen in the magnificent 1955, which I rank even above the legendary 1937. Anyone lucky enough to own a bottle should count themselves fortunate.

Darker in color than I would have expected, it was on the deep, dark, amber side of caramel, or mahogany, don't let the color scare you off. The aromatics sizzled with coffee, caramel, butterscotch, nuts buttered tropical fruit and honey. Thick, rich and fat, yes, the wine could have used a bit more freshness, but the finish was long, intense, sweet and packed with flavor. I know d'Yquem is shockingly expensive, but when Yquem just starts to get going, at perhaps 40-50-60 years of age, the other Sauternes are usually left in the dust. - Jeff Leve

This was the colour of a particularly dark Oloroso sherry – a sort of glowing chestnut colour – and actually tasted rather like sweet chestnuts. Despite its looks, it was amazingly fresh and zesty with a savoury molasses edge. It finished drier than some other bottles of 1955 Yquem recalled by the donor, whose birthday we were celebrating.