Riesling was the first white variety planted at Clonakilla, back in 1971 by John Kirk, the father of Tim Kirk, the current winemaker. It is still going strong. The grapes are handpicked and whole bunch pressed, before racking for fermentation. Tim has indicated that the fruit came in, in near perfect condition, despite it being a rather challenging year. Whilst some winemakers are a little like politicians, Tim is definitely one you can believe, even if he is based in Canberra. If he claims it was perfect, then perfect it was. This is a magic Riesling, surely one of his best. I have long been a big fan of the Clonakilla Rieslings, but this one surely exceeds all expectations. A wine of the palest lemon/lime hue, the nose is delightfully full of citrus and spices, especially an appealing lime sherbet note. This is supported by hints of river pebbles, honeysuckle, wet slate and ginger. The wine is clean, inevitably youthful, delightfully fresh with bright acidity and great length. Strike that and make it incredible length. This Riesling can sit with the best made anywhere in Australia. A twenty-year proposition. Drink 2026-2046. - Ken Gargett