The Bonnes-Mares 2014 at Domaine de Comte de Vogue comes in at a very svelte 12.4% alcohol, but delivers just lovely fruit sappiness to go along with stellar transparency. The nose delivers a lovely range of scents, with notes of damson plums, black cherries, raw cocoa, smoke, mustard seed, peonies, gentle notes of new wood and a beautifully refined range of soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very soil-driven, with plenty of sappiness in reserve at the core, ripe, beautifully-integrated tannins and a long, vibrant and very, very promising finish. A beautiful example of Bonnes-Mares in the making

The 2014 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru has an intriguing and complex bouquet. It is equidistant between red and black fruit, forsaking the sorbet-like tendencies of other Bonnes-Mares 2014 that I tasted from barrel. Rather, this is more earthbound with scents of potter's wheel and woodland infusing the fruit. The palate is towards the red side of the fruit spectrum like the Amoureuses, very saline in the mouth, actually quite Musigny-like in style with fine structure towards the finish and a long, delicately spiced aftertaste. This should become a cerebral Bonnes-Mares.

Deep ruby. A completely different aromatic profile is present with its much earthier array of notably fresh red berries and discreet sauvage aromas where a touch of elegance is provided by notes of violet and lilac. There is excellent richness to the muscular and full-bodied flavors that also possess fine mid-palate concentration that coats the mouth and helps to buffer the very firm tannic spine on the seamlessly proportioned finale. This very firmly structured effort is clearly going to require 15 to 20 years to arrive at its peak.

Good dark red. Musky, soil-driven aromas of dark cherry, sappy pomegranate, wild herbs and brown spices. Densely packed and silky but with excellent definition and energy to its dark berry, menthol, dark chocolate and herb flavors. Much broader than the Chambolle 1er Cru but also less evolved. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and terrific length.

Very deep colour. Fresh and tense. Racy and fruity – much more transparent and readable than the Amoureuses at this point. Sleek and fun. Serious but with very obvious fruit ripeness too. Dry finish shows it will last well.