55% whole bunch. Dark crimson purple. The bouquet shows a little reduction, with dark raspberry and strawberry fruit. Powerful and backward, a very crunchy finish with a few more tannins, definitely a darker fruit. A little new oak behind. This needs more elevage. Drink from 2027-2034.

Continuing the 2021 them here, the Charmes-Chambertin is another example of the vintage that is just basking in its glorious red fruit tones this year. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of cherries, beetroot, a touch of plum, grilled meats, coffee, sweet stem tones, a beautiful base of soil, mustard seed and cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, soil-driven and complex, with a good core of fruit, suave tannins, lovely balance and a long, focused and nicely reserved finish. Good juice. 2037-2090.

Smoky reduction, woodsy spice and baked red plums pop from the nose. There is even a leafy freshness as the wine opens in the glass. The tannins are slightly rogue for Charmes with breadth and dryness, but the underlying, satiny fruit comes to the rescue. This needs a few years to settle down in structure, even if the dynamic aromas and pure fruit are appealing on their own now.

Rather powerful and muscular by the standards of the vintage, the 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru reveals aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with rose petals, spices and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a textural mid-palate and a long, perfumed finish, this is impressive. (William Kelley)

The ripe blackberry fruit aromas of the Dujac Charmes-Chambertin are almost impossibly seductive, with hints of earth and spice. There is also a rewarding density here as the plump fruit continues on the palate, supported by silky yet sustaining tannins that carry the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes come from their parcel of 0.70 hectares located in the lieu-dit of Aux Charmes that was picked on 28 September. A top wine. (Charles Curtis MW)