A fine glowing purple. Bright mid purple, with a very lively nose, very obviously whole bunch. Actually, a really gorgeous nose, more floral in the top notes but a wealth of come-hither fruit below. A wonderful wealth of fruit right across the palate. Later picking paid off. This is a delight but the Clos de la Roche has significantly more intensity Drink from 2030-2038.

The 2021 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru comes from Les Chaffots, Calouere and the titular lieux-dits. Impressive delineation and mineralite on the nose, this is taut and focused; a light marine note percolates through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, taut and fresh, building in concentration towards the finish with gentle but insistent grip. There is a sense of harmony and completeness in situ. (NM)

One would expect that Morey’s most elegant grand cru bottling would excel in a vintage as refined as 2021, and that is exactly the case with Domaine Dujac’s version this year. The hauntingly beautiful bouquet wafts from the glass in a blend of red plums, beetroot, cherries, cocoa powder, a refined base of chalky soil tones, gamebird, sweet stems, woodsmoke, mustard seed and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and suave on the attack, with a sappy core, beautiful transparency and grip, fine-grained tannins and a very long, very lovely finish. 2035-2100.

Enticingly aromatic, this starts with dried rose petals, tea leaves, crushed tree branches and a whiff of reduction. The texture is wildly appealing with rounded edges, supple mid-palate fruit and lilting acidity. A tantalizing, savory saltiness wiggles into the long, cherry-filled finish. There are two parcels totaling 1.17 hectares between the Clos de la Roche and Les Chaffots sectors of this Grand Cru.

The 2021 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru is brilliant, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, summer fruit compote, sweet spices, licorice, peony and coniferous forest floor. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it's fleshy and textural, its satiny attack segueing into a deep, seamless mid-palate and a perfumed, penetrating finish. (William Kelley)