A spectacular chardonnay whose voluminous and alluring perfume reveals deep layers of stonefruit, grapefruit and lemon tightly knit with faintly toasty vanilla oak spot lit with complex nuances of spice, creamy nougat and roast chicken pie. Its unctuous core of pristine stonefruit and citrus flavour steamrolls long and clear down a finely textured backbone, driving with power and style towards a fine, focused finish of refreshing and faintly mineral acids. Artfully balanced with smoky oak, it’s quite a masterpiece. Acknowledging the role of Darrin Garry in its making, this Chardonnay gets my nod as the finest white wine yet released by Doug Neal.

Bright, light yellow with a subtle touch of smoky reduction on the first aroma, then comes an array of orchard fruits, from pear to ripe apple, creamy yeast lees notes, cashewnut and custard apple. A hint of snuffed candle. The palate is rich and fleshy withy concentration and generosity, but also elegance, the finish lasting a very long time.

A quiet charm offensive is taking place in the glass, combining pristine fruit and a distinctive Mornington Peninsula pedigree of finesse. White florals, pure citrus, fleshy stone fruits, melon, almond meal, peach skin, saline and a light spice arrive with a mineral-clean brightness and acidity that shines. It's early days, but the emerging textural qualities are noted, as is the underlying role of oak and, through it, a complexity of deep flavour building through the middle palate. Finishes on point, pithy and with a tangy farewell. Impressive now, but just wait.