Honeycrisp apple skin, lemon zest and green plum. Winter melon and starfruit. Plumes of talc powder, pomice and honeysuckle. Plenty of white delicate florals and a blush of nectarine. Intoxicating acidity and a kefir creaminess on the finish. A spray of saline and oak appears in its round shapes rather than toasty notes. Alive with energy and creeping unsuspecting power. Drinking well now and will cellar 3-5 years, a great wine for the bite of calamari or richness of abalone. - Shanteh Wale

An even split of upper and lower Yarra fruit. Whole-bunch pressed and wild fermented in 15% new French puncheons. Around 25% mlf. A very bright green gold. Attractive scents of ripe white pears and nectarines, lemon curd and just the right amount of flint. Packs a punch on the saline, gently textured, gently chewy palate. Great stuff and the perfect entrée to the year's superb lineup of single-vineyard chardonnays.