65.9/34.1% chardonnay/pinot noir, aged for 9 years on lees, disgorged Apr '20 the dosage only 2.5g/l. Full straw-yellow hue; layered brioche complexity, powerful drive and length. Australia's answer to Krug.

Bright, light to medium yellow colour. The bouquet is exquisitely multi-layered and arresting, creamy toasty, roasted hazelnut and smoked-charcuterie aromas, honey and lemon chardonnay nuances discernible within the overall complexity. Buttery popcorn as it warmed up. This all transfers superbly to the palate, where the wine is mouth-filling, rich and ample, soft but dry textured and the aftertaste is tremendously long. It can still be tasted minutes later. A great sparkling wine and a magical drink, at its peak at 13 years. (11 years on lees)

You can go Chard or you can go home. Ed Carr went Chard. 66% Chardonnay, mostly from the Derwent Valley and Freycinet on the East Coast, this is a delightful combination of maturity and lively freshness. Nine years on lees with a small percentage of the base wine fermented in oak, these bubbles are awash with baked brioche, peaches, vanilla, almonds, truffle creme brulee and sweet spices. Despite all these delicious rich characteristics, the freshness and structure are undeniable. There is a wealth of crushed oyster shells, ripe lemon juice, juicy green apples and a sea spray salinity which lingers long in the mouth and kept me wanting more.

Arras has been something of a Tasmanian icon since the label was established back in 1995 and with a wine like this, it is easy to see why. The goal is one of elegance, complexity, depth and a wine that can spend considerable time on its lees and still have a long life ahead of it. Ed Carr and the team are kicking goals, as the youth say, with every release and long may it continue. If you are yet to discover Tasmanian sparkling wines, I would recommend going Chard on this one, but be careful, you may end up making Tasmania your home.

Incomparable complexity; displaying the youth of ripe apple, citrus and dried grass alongside the depth of nougat and honey. Rich and buttery on the palate with a fantastic mousse presence and absorbing acidity. Long and glorious.