More forward than many producers Beaumonts (or Beaux Monts as most domaines label it), this enticingly aromatic premier cru comes from two parcels on the slope above the village of Vosne, planted in the 1940s and 1990s. Fragrant and refined, it has lots of sumptuous raspberry fruit, chalky minerality and sculpted tannins. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanee Beaumonts from Domaine Hudelot-Noellat was showing beautifully at the time of my visit and is going to be an exceptional wine. The bouquet is pure and very beautiful in its blend of black raspberries, sweet blackberries, woodsmoke, espresso, dark soil tones, pigeon and cedary wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very well-balanced, with fine focus and grip, lovely mineral drive and a long, refined and ripely tannic finish. Just a beautiful bottle in the making. 2027-2065.

There is just enough wood lurking in the background of the brooding yet very fresh black cherry, plum and Asian-style tea-inflected aromas to mention. The velvety, delicious and beautifully detailed medium-bodied flavors possess a polished mouthfeel, all wrapped in a stony finish where a touch of youthful austerity arises. Like several wines in the range, this beautiful effort is an exercise in finesse and punch.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaumonts 1er Cru has a succinct, quite understated bouquet of red cherry and wild strawberry that opens up and welcomes you in after a minute's aeration. There is fine transparency here. The palate is very sappy with a potent marine influence (hints of brine and kelp), fresh and quite deep toward the persistent, slightly peppery finish. Excellent, though I am charmed more by the Malconsorts at this prenatal stage

The 2017 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaumonts bursts from the glass with a dramatic bouquet of ripe cherries, plums, smoked duck and burning embers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and ample with a gourmand, fleshy profile and succulent balancing acids. While it isn't as serious as the Suchots and Malconsorts, it will be more expressive in the near term. This is a successful vintage for Charles Van Canneyt at Domaine Hudelot-Noellat. The wines are supple and charming, gaining in-depth, seriousness and complexity as one ascends the hierarchy of appellations and vine age. After the concentrated and compelling 2015s and 2016s, both vintages built for the cellar despite their decidedly different styles, 2017 represents a high quality but more immediate, structurally open-knit year for the Domaine, and for impatient consumers, that is no bad thing. The domaine's roster of appellations will be familiar to readers by now, with the exception of a promising new Meursault from the lieu-dit Clos des Ecoles,a parcel formerly farmed by the Domaine Coche-Dury