A 94/4/2% estate-grown blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and cabernet franc that spent 21 months in new French oak. Excellent colour; Margaret River blends don't come better than this, a wine that is strongly reminiscent of vintages 5 or more years ago that outscored First Growth Bordeauxs in blind tastings. In the manner of those Bordeaux wines, this will live for decades with its array of black fruits and firm tannins, and cries out for patience.

Glorious fragrance here – bay leaf, five spice, pencil, violet, ripe dark fruit – regional but with most of the gum leaf firmly knocked on the head. A choc-licorice richness emerges with air. Medium to full bodied, firm structure of even acidity and earthy tannin, though it’s not forbidding – almost crisp feeling with flickers of brighter red fruits in the mix. You know those gazelles that hang around clefts? Well, it leaps like one of those on the finish. Superb, and clearly a level above most of the others.