Oh my, this is a classy expression of a single vineyard Coonawarra Cabernet in this excellent year. Each year one section is chosen to bottle separately and, in this case, it was the Childs vineyard on V&A Lane. The last of these was back in 2012. The striking feature is the fine elegant lines with the silky fine tannins and equally fine oak matching which has augmented the smoothly textured fruit beautifully. Just love the bright red fruits with the underpinning black leafy fruits. The energy and life are palpable.

Childs Vineyard is on V&A Lane and the last time its name graced a Wynns’ label was the 2012 vintage. A decade later it returned in ‘22 and brings an imposing deep colour and intensity of flavour to the glass. Impenetrable dark purple. Aromas are just awakening – this is a taut, young Cabernet – with scents of briar, earth, blackberry, cassis, blueberry, briar, earth, anise. Tempting as it is, you would be doing the wine a disservice to drink it too young. There is a solid core of gorgeous fruit, peppery spice and vanillin oak spice complexity built around taut tannins at the wine’s heart, and it’s ever so slowly evolving. Finishes firmly and dry. Some powerhouse winegrowing/winemaking here. Holds great promise for those willing to cellar.

Planted in '69, the '22 comes from a prized Terra Rossa site. Matured for 16 months in 30% new and seasoned French oak barrels. Black fruited with a core of cocoa pods, clove and dark spice. There is a thrill of plum compote, fresh and juicy with silky swathes of fine tannins. Acidity creeps in at the edges with true staying power. This is luxurious without being indulgent.

Very deep, concentrated purple colour that leaves a residue in the glass. Deep, mysterious, slightly shy bouquet of fully ripe blackberry fruits and some tar and tobacco traces. Intense and full-bodied, powerful and yet smooth on the tongue, with soft but ample tannins and a long follow-through. Gorgeous cabernet: not a hint of leafy/greenness here, just delicious flavour of spot-on ripeness. A more fruit-driven style than the John Riddoch and a nice contrast.

I put my nose near it and it screamed Coonawarra cabernet, in the best of ways. I tasted it and it rolled with blackcurrant, redcurrant and mint, with tobacco nuances and wide, elongated sheets of tannin. There’s a violet-like note right in the centre of both the nose and the palate, and quite exquisite balance. It’s not that kind of wine that you need to go on about. It simply positions everything in exactly the right place, and proportion, in a varietal and regional sense.