The Biondi-Santi 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a stunning wine from all points of view. Seamless integration and elegant complexity are what stand out, and it’s worth dedicating a few extra lines to the aromatic depth that is put so beautifully on display as the wine slowly unfolds. The bouquet starts off with wild cherry, earth, wet ash, crème de cassis and pruny chocolate. With extra time, there are hints of dried tobacco leaf, sandalwood and mossy forest floor. These lead to a fine tail of dried herb, bay leaf and a touch of rusty nail. The Riserva comes in numbered bottles, and I opened number 04277. To the palate, the wine is streamlined and silky with smooth tannins and a well-managed 13.5% alcohol content. The oak presence is reduced to a minimum, offering mild hints of spice and the delicate sandalwood or dried fig aroma I described above. Fresh acidity is the glue that gives the wine buoyancy and staying power. At this young stage, this 2013 vintage could be considered a bit shy or slow to start, but this will play out to great advantage in the long term as the wine continues its bottle evolution.

Aromas of forest berries, rose and camphor with whiffs of underbrush and new leather slowly take shape on this radiant red. Elegant to the point of being almost ethereal, it's still youthfully austere, featuring tangy cranberry, sour cherry, orange zest and star anise before a black tea finish. Tightly wound, refined tannins and bright acidity provide the framework. This needs several years or more to fully come together and develop to its full potential. Drink 2028–2048. *Cellar Selection*

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva blossoms in the glass in a display of understated power mixed with purity. This unfolds more like a whisper than a shout, wafting up with a delicate bouquet of fresh violets, lavender and a dusting of shaved cedar and clove. With time, it deepens further, pulling you down to earth with aromas of wild strawberry and underbrush. The textures are like pure silk gently draped across the palate, but what they leave behind is a more engaging and classic mix of salty mineral tones and tart red berries, all lifted by juicy acidity. This then takes another turn, now toward the savory spectrum, as wild herbal and inner earth tones mix with a fine layer of sweet tannin to create a youthfully austere yet not overtly structured expression, leaving a nuance of tobacco to linger long. The 2013 presents an intriguing interpretation of the Biondi Santi Riserva, one that shrugs off the grippy, gruff, almost rustic tannins of the past in exchange for a more youthfully harmonious expression. Will it age? Maybe not for 50 years, but considering that this beauty was open and tasted over the course of three days, I'm convinced that it will be thrilling for the next few decades to come.

The 2013 vintage is the estate's latest Riserva to be released, the winery’s 40th Riserva since 1888 and the first vintage in over 40 years without the leadership of Franco Biondi-Santi. Due to rainstorms in September, the family delayed picking until the end of the month, making 2013 a relatively late harvest for Biondi-Santi. Classic sour red cherry notes are accented by orange, sandalwood and fennel. The palate charms with its savoury expression, finely textured sandy tannins and underlying minerality. Understated and refined, it flows gracefully but will nevertheless benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.

Day one: Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Cool yet intense and complex on the nose. Contained yet deep. Minerally notes of cherry and blood orange. Compact transparent and with embryonic austerity. Reluctant to show it all, but the balance is sheer perfection. Finely powdered tannins and an elegant, medium palate weight. Furls up quickly on the finish into a dormant state. Needs at least half a decade more in bottle. Day two: Just mid ruby with orange tinges. More brooding and introvert on the nose than yesterday, but no signs at all of oxidation. Great purity of fruit. Minerally peppery hints. Quite closed but exceedingly fine on the palate with finely chiselled tannins and succulent cherry and raspberry fruit. It's all a tad better integrated showing this wine needs a lot of bottle age. Transparent and long, but closes up on the finish. Day three: Just mid ruby with broad orange rim. The nose is even more closed than the day before, but absolutely no signs of oxidation. Cool sour-cherry nose with a peppery tingle. Great depth, but brooding rather than expressive. Notes of iron. Racy, but stubborn palate firmly closed on the fruit and fine long powdery tannins. After having been open for over 72 hours it is still too young to approach. 19/20 points