Deep dark ruby in colour with an opaque core, purple reflections, and subtle brightening on the rim. On the nose, aromas of ripe cassis, dark cherry, subtle hints of nougat, bergamot, and candied orange zest, multi-faceted like a peacock’s fan. The juicy palate is very lively, not even hinting at its power, with fine red berry nuances and hints of cherry and caramel. This is a wine of enormous length and great seductiveness, never before has a Haut-Brion been so appealing at such an early stage. Simply sensational.

The 2022 Haut-Brion is a bit restrained, given the natural opulence of the year and the other wines in the Clarence Dillon portfolio. Deep and wonderfully layered, the 2022 possesses remarkable depth but also less of the explosive energy of such a Haut-Brion signature.

I suspect that will come in time, as the 2022 shows quite a bit better with a little aeration. Violet, gravel, incense, leather, tobacco and scorched earth linger. Superb.

Currants and cedar with sandalwood and peaches. Fascinating aromas. Violets. Full-bodied with a crunchy and electric palate of primary fruit, with hints of tangerines and citrus. Great finish with structure and polish. 53.6% merlot, 35.4% cabernet sauvignon and 11% cabernet franc. Interesting to have such high merlot in the blend.

The 2022 Haut-Brion, matured in 70% new oak, represents the 99th vintage under three generations of the Delmas family (see my recently published book for a remarkable photo of the first). It has slightly darker fruit than the La Mission at the moment. Incense and potpourri infuse the black plum and bilberry.

There's a touch of brine in the background. It manifests more and more complexity as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and is blessed with unerring symmetry. It has a bewitching granular texture, complex and more focused than recent vintages, and is almost pixelated on the finish. Quintessential Haut-Brion.

Magnificent but not necessarily the best wine that Delmas oversaw in this vintage.

Slightly better than its sibling La Mission Haut-Brion, the 2022 Château Haut-Brion has a full-bodied, concentrated, structured style that will demand bottle age. Cassis, graphite, scorched earth, and tobacco are just some of its nuances aromatically, and it shows the ripe, powerful style of the vintage. There are lots of tannins here, especially on the finish, and it will need 7-8 years in the cellar.