One of the last estates to harvest in 2003—picking as late as September 25, alongside Rayas, in a year that was otherwise exceptionally precocious—Clos des Papes took an extraordinary gamble in waiting for full phenolic maturity, despite alcohol levels already reaching 14% by mid-August. The resulting wine is the 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Clos des Papes, a remarkable achievement for such a torrid vintage, opening with a reductive, complex bouquet of menthol, licorice, dark fruits and spices. Full-bodied, dense and firmly structured, it's focused and somewhat wild in character, with firm, tightly wound tannins and a long, precise finish. Atypical for the estate yet superbly constructed, it's a testament to Paul-Vincent Avril's refusal to compromise on phenolic ripeness regardless of the vintage's extremes.

Concentrated, lush and full bodied, the powerful wine kicks off with jammy black cherries, pepper, figs and Provencal herbs. Not exactly delicate, this is more focused on the volume and stylistic character. There is a touch of dryness in the finish that is not off putting, but part of the wines character. There is no touch of heat or over-ripeness here. Still young, this is not your grandmother's Clos des Papes.