-
93 Points
The grapes come from various vineyards at high altitude, Viognier and Pinot Noir
René Barbier and his son produce a tiny quantity of this extraordinary textural, unique white.
Barbier's aim is to produce a truly unique wine that reflects both the rocky, sun drenched soil of Priorat while at the same time paying homage to the historical wines of the area.
"My friendly local Bibendum wine wholesaler man, the grand-poobah-in-lieu, Stu Northey, tends to drop off wines at the end of a day after peddling them around to far more sales orientated targets than I. Lucky me. So, I returned home after a day away from the homestead to find a little care package of Rene Barbier’s Clos Mogador, Nelin and Manyettes looking at me forlornly. Lucky me. The wines had been open a day, so that is the caveat for the notes – not much of an issue with R. Barbier wines which seem to be built for long hauls. Anyway, Nelin is an unusual fruit salady blend of 50% garnacha blanca with the balance in macabeau, viognier, marsanne, roussanne, and the local varieties of pedro ximenez and escanyo velles – from revitalised old vineyards in Priorat, Spain. It can all be a bit mysterious to what degree the other varieties are present, but it’s a planned program, not left entirely up to random numbers. The wine is fermented in egg-shaped concrete tanks before hitting barrels for around 9 months. Pretty, delicate aromas – fresh beeswax, white orchard fruits, honeysuckle – but the feel is of great complexity, stippled with quartz and wet stone mineral-like tinges. The palate is svelte, crisp and long, finishing in a spiced phenolic pucker that whips the palate clean. There is architecture here, fine-boned structure that highlights the layered fruit flavours. Up front is a touch of creamy/waxy slipperiness, the acidity is glassy, but brings some firm edges to the wine. Really interesting, really compelling drinking."
White
2010
Viognier
Clos Mogador
Catalonia, Spain
Drink Now
Cork
14.0%
750ml (Bottle)
Adding product to your cart
-
Description
The palate is svelte, crisp and long, finishing in a spiced phenolic pucker that whips the palate clean
Description
Rene Barbier is the winemaker behind Clos Mogador and it is he who has conferred worldwide recognition to Priorat. He has enabled this region on the wild hills above Tarragona (near the northeast coast of Spain) to become one of the most prestigious vineyards in Spain.
Thanks to this Frenchman (originally from the Cotes-du-Rhone), who settled here in the 1980s, Priorat has now become one of the country’s most renowned wine regions. Housed in an old property that he bought at Gratallops, he created his own vineyard in this region known for its shale land. About 15 years ago, this village comprised of around one hundred inhabitants, now there are more than a thousand.
Rene Barbier studied in Burgundy, then at the University of Bordeaux before numerous stints across France, notably at Chateau Petrus! In 1989, he harvested his first grapes, which came after ten years of hard work - during which he combined his work selling wine during the week with his passion of developing his vineyards and building his house on the weekends. In order to produce the best wine, Barbier employs new technologies while also building and maintaining his diverse wine knowledge. Attention to detail is taken to the extreme with his estate, promoting biodiversity by planting fruit trees, almond trees, olive trees and flowers between the vines. During harvest, he determines the exact timing for pruning each plant. Even better the harvested grapes are sorted by hand, one by one, before moving them into a vertical manual press, more than a century old that was recovered from an old cellar!