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Georges Vernay Les Chaillees de l'Enfer Condrieu 2020

  • Alexandre Ma
    97 Points
  • Jeb Dunnuck
    95 Points
  • Wine Spectator
    95 Points
Georges Vernay Les Chaillees de l'Enfer Condrieu 2020
  • Alexandre Ma
    97 Points
  • Jeb Dunnuck
    95 Points
  • Wine Spectator
    95 Points
Georges Vernay Les Chaillees de l'Enfer Condrieu 2020
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Georges Vernay Les Chaillees de l'Enfer Condrieu 2020

SKU: GVCE202010 UCAU
15 Plus Years
Regular price $259.99 / bottle
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“Chaillees” and “l'Enfer” translates to “rocky” and “hell” respectively, and apparently takes reference to the challenges of the steep granitic terraces.

Domaine Georges Vernay is the saviour of the Condrieu appellation and its exotic variety Viognier.

This is one of the most iconic and famous estates of the Northern Rhône.

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Georges Vernay Les Chaillees de l'Enfer Condrieu 2020

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Tasting Notes

Why give the cuvée this name? When walking through this parcel, the elders always exclaimed, ‘We’re in Hell!' Cultivating vines on these rugged steep granite slopes is indeed complicated and dangerous. Naturally, mechanisation is not possible. The vines are cultivated with the utmost care and treated with organic substances. The Viognier grapes are harvested by hand at peak ripeness. This is followed by a gentle pressing of whole harvest grapes, and fermentation of the clarified juices after static settling in 225-litre barrels for 4 to 5 weeks. The wine is then matured in barrels (25% new wood) on fine lees for 12 to 18 months, with stirring of the lees. This opulent, full-bodied wine exudes amazing aromatic power. While it already shows great potential when young, it is even more impressive after ten or so years in the cellar. It’s well worth being patient.

 

Critic Scores

More brioche, toasted bread, honeyed minerality, and exotic peach and tropical fruits emerge from the 2020 Condrieu Les Chaillees De L'Enfer, which comes from a parcel just beside the Côteau Vernon. Medium to full-bodied and concentrated, with plenty of richness, it's that rare ability of Condrieu to pair richness with freshness that makes this wine so special. I love these wines in their youth (and I always recommend drinking them in their first 5-7 years), but these have the ability to evolve for over a decade.

This is both pure and rich, with impressive tension between fragrant plum, quince and almond cream and a firming mineral spine. Silky on the palate, this has a quiet power that builds, with dried hay and honeycomb notes bringing warmth. Well-built, with very fine, talclike tannins adding a bitter note on the very lengthy finish. Drink now through 2030.

Vinification & Cultivation

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Vineyard Cultivation

Domaine Georges Vernay, based in Condrieu, is the estate credited with rescuing the appellation and its Viognier grape. Les Chaillees de l'Enfer comes from a steep terraced parcel immediately beside the estate's celebrated Coteau de Vernon. The names translate roughly as 'rocky' (chaillees) and 'hell' (l'enfer), a nod to the punishing gradient of the granitic terraces, which must be worked almost entirely by hand. The decomposed-granite soils and full exposure give a richer, more powerful expression of Condrieu Viognier, and the estate farms organically. The 2020 northern Rhone vintage was warm and generous, delivering concentrated, ripe fruit while retaining the freshness for which this site is prized.

Vinification

The Viognier is hand-harvested and whole-bunch pressed, then fermented and matured in a mix of barriques and larger wood, with only a small proportion of new oak so that the wine's brioche, toasted and honeyed notes come from lees and terroir rather than from obvious oak. Extended lees ageing over several months builds the concentrated, full-bodied mouthfeel, while the granite site preserves the tension that lets this Condrieu pair richness with freshness. Malolactic fermentation is generally allowed to complete, adding to the creamy texture.

About this Wine

Rhone Valley

The Rhône Valley is in the South of France and is situated in the Rhône river valley. The region has been growing wines for centuries and is generally split into two sub-regions. In the Northern Rhône, Syrah is the predominant grape variety, though it is often blended with other white varieties like Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier, or the red grape Mourvedre. In the Southern Rhône, a wide range of white, red and rosés are produced alongside the undisputed king of the Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The Northern Rhône is cooler than the Southern Rhône and has a continental climate with warm summers and cold winter. The appellations from North to South are Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, Château-Grillet, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Cornas and Saint-Péray.

In Southern Rhône, the climate is more Mediterranean, with mild winters and hot summers. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most famous appellation but others include Côtes du Rhône, Gigondas and Lirac. Large pebbles are used in the region, placed at the base of the vines to absorb the suns heat during the day, to keep the vines warm at night.

Châteauneuf-du-Papes are blended from the 13 permitted grape varieties, though Grenache usually dominates, supported by Syrah and Mourvèdre. These wines can be supremely rich and complex and typically warrant 5-10 years in the cellar for best results.

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