This is a great bottling of this famed central Victorian icon. Layers of black and blue fruits intertwine with a mineral-edged undertone, showing aromas of graphite, ferric earth, spices, violets, blackberries and licorice. The palate is seamlessly integrated, with a fine backbone of acidity and almost silken tannins. An excellent wine that balances fruit, earth and vineyard character, all pulled together with a high level of polish. Excellent. Drink or hold.

Here is a first-rate lesson on soils and what they contribute to wine. Georgia hails from red, iron-oxide–rich, ancient Cambrian soils that have brought the most astonishing natural balance in '24. The boldness we associate with Georgia is there, but so too a well-delivered fineness of expression that seems to belie the 15.5% abv. The fruit is black and ripe, the spices soar, the oak is well integrated and a ferrous minerality adds a brightness and spark to everything. The tannins are firm but still welcoming, and it just gels so beautifully, so resoundingly. Date: Aug 2025; Alcohol: 15.5%; Drink by: 2042; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion