Valmaggiore is a magical, three-hectare, amphitheatre-shaped vineyard in the Roero area of Piemonte. Now that Roero is rising in prominence, we can truly recognise what a pioneer Luciano Sandrone was when he established Valmaggiore some 30 years ago. Nobody was talking about Roero at the time, but Sandrone recognised its potential, having worked with Roero parcels during his time as cellarmaster of Marchesi di Barolo. The risks were enormous; establishing an extremely steep vineyard (50% gradient in places) with such sandy soils (quick to dry out and erode) was always going to be a huge challenge, with no guarantee of quality. The land needed to be terraced and replanted, requiring major investment. And all this in a place outside the Barolo region that no one believed capable of greatness! Luciano Sandrone begged to differ.

The site is farmed meticulously and organically, and strict sorting occurs each year to reach the level of purity and intensity we see in the glass. Fermentation took place in tank, with malolactic fermentation and maturation in old French demi-muid (with 9-12 months aging). Over the years, this wine has developed a passionate following in Australia and deserves every plaudit. It is a unique Nebbiolo of tremendous perfume, fine texture and finesse, with an elegance and prettiness quite distinct from the denser, darker, more structured styles produced in the clay-rich soils of Barolo and Barbaresco. It’s about as close as Piemonte gets to Burgundy and is a wonderful drink young and old. The 2023 is superb.