The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo (with 10,000 bottles released) has a mineral character and a sleek, firm approach that gives this wine its special identity. The wine is polished, almost glossy in texture with blackcurrant, plum and wild rose, and the tannins are gripping, although the Rio Sordo sports a lean to medium-rich density overall.

Produttori del Barbaresco has been hitting it out of the ballpark these past years with a string of excellent vintages that resulted in the production of their entire line of Riservas. However, that good momentum comes to an end because the Riservas were not made in 2018. That vintage saw all the fruit blended into one non-MGA Barbaresco. And with the 2017 Riservas reviewed here, you might find these bottles hard to find. Production was 30% lower in this growing season because of a very careful fruit selection process. In fact, Aldo Vacca calls 2017 a "roller coaster vintage with frost, then hail, then a summer drought."

Delivers depth and velvety texture, which are a perfect foil for the saturated cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. Underlined by mineral and spice notes, this is harmonious and long, with a mineral aftertaste. Feels approachable now, but this has structure and will age beautifully. Best from 2025 through 2043.

The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo shows the natural intensity of the year, and yet retains a good bit of the aromatic lift that is so typical of Nebbiolo at its best. Silky, perfumed and poised, the Rio Sordo is impressive in this tasting. Spice and floral notes lift a core of red-toned fruit in this mid-weight yet packed Barbaresco from the Produttori. This has very fine potential.