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Rioja is in the midst of a profound transformation. While global uncertainties shake the wine industry, domestic wine consumption in Spain continues to shrink—and no region feels the effects more acutely than Rioja. Declining prices for both grapes and wine have triggered alarm, with 2024 seeing an unprecedented 150 million liters left unsold. Discussions around reducing vineyard area by up to 10% (around 6,000 hectares) have become increasingly serious.
Yet amid these challenges, a wave of creativity and renewal is taking root. Forward-thinking vintners are turning their backs on traditional aging categories in favor of wines that highlight the unique character of specific villages and vineyards. This shift marks a stylistic departure from convention and may well redefine Rioja's identity for a new generation of wine lovers.
Rediscovering Place: The Terroir Movement
In San Vicente de la Sonsierra, ancient vineyards like Viñedo Mágico exemplify this change. Set on calcareous sandstone terraces and planted in distinctive hexagonal formations, these parcels tell a story of diversity and heritage. But with producers working in isolation, their collective voice has struggled to break through. That's changing with efforts like the Association of Producers of the Sonsierra, aiming to unify and promote this terroir-focused renaissance.
At the heart of this revival are growers reclaiming control over their fruit. As prices for bulk grapes fall, some have stopped selling to large cooperatives and started bottling their own wines. This pivot is more than economic survival—it's a creative resurgence. Drawing parallels with the 1970s "Cosecheros" who upended Rioja's winemaking landscape, today's independent vintners are injecting the region with energy and individualism.
Redefining the Rules
However, Rioja's official classifications remain tied to tradition. The DOCa system prioritizes blending and restricts the use of village names unless wines are made and bottled within that village. Producers are challenging these constraints—some using coded references to locales, others labeling by vineyard or zone even without formal designation.
The relatively new "viñedo singular" category, introduced to recognize single-vineyard wines, is gaining momentum. Since 2019, over 160 vineyards have earned the title, reflecting a growing appetite for specificity and origin-based identity. Yet, many winemakers argue the system still lacks the flexibility to accommodate Rioja's full diversity.
The Spectrum of Tempranillo
Tempranillo, the region's cornerstone grape, takes on many expressions depending on location. In the Sonsierra area of Rioja Alavesa, vineyards sit between 1,600 and 2,400 feet, where cool Atlantic influences and limestone-rich soils yield wines with fine tannins and bright fruit. Nearby Rioja Alta shares similar soil but has a drier climate and slightly lower elevations, resulting in firmer structure and deeper flavors.
To the southeast, red clay soils and altitudes up to 3,000 feet favor Garnacha over Tempranillo. The wines here are floral, balanced, and structured—a product of high sunlight and poor, well-drained soils. Other zones, like Haro and Valdepiedras, offer a mix of gravel and alluvium, yielding smooth, approachable reds.
Old Vines, New Vision
Rioja's oldest vineyards, often field blends planted on terraced lastras, hold centuries of viticultural wisdom. Traditionally, growers matched grape variety to soil depth: Viura and Calagraño in shallow sections, Tempranillo in the middle, and Garnacha or Graciano in deeper zones. These mixed plantings created complex, distinctive wines harvested and fermented together.
Today, winemakers like Telmo Rodríguez, Marcos Eguren, and Arturo de Miguel are working to preserve and replicate these vineyards. Their mission is clear: restore the diversity that once defined Rioja and encourage site-specific bottlings that speak of origin.
The Garnacha Revival
Though it has been overshadowed by Tempranillo since the 1980s, Garnacha is once again earning its place in Rioja’s top wines. With just 4,200 hectares planted, it offers vivid red fruit and floral lift, enhancing Tempranillo's more structured character. Supporting varieties like Graciano, Mazuelo, and Viura also contribute to the complexity of modern blends.
Whites Worth Watching
White Rioja is making a comeback. Of the 600 wines reviewed in this report, 100 were whites, mostly made from Viura (Macabeo). This restrained, broad-palate variety is finding new expression, often blended with Garnacha Blanca, Malvasía Riojana, and others to add acidity and lift. When done well, Viura offers delicate notes of orange blossom and acacia, signaling its potential to anchor a new white wine movement.
Navarra: A Neighbor in Evolution
In Navarra, Garnacha is also experiencing a renaissance. The region's mountainous north and Mediterranean south both produce compelling reds, ranging from floral and silky to robust and ripe. Producers like Viña Zorzal and Aseginolaza y Leunda are redefining what Navarra Garnacha can be.
Vintage Reflections
Two contrasting vintages dominate this report. 2021 was cool and balanced, yielding elegant, subtle wines reminiscent of 2016. In contrast, 2022's heat and drought resulted in bold, structured wines with density and grip. Early 2024 wines show dual personalities depending on whether they were harvested before or after harvest rains.
A Region Reimagined
Rioja is changing. The tension between old rules and new vision is giving rise to a vibrant, terroir-forward future. By embracing village identity, honoring old vineyards, and exploring forgotten grapes, a new Rioja is being born. The wines already speak of this change—and in the coming years, their voices will only grow louder.
