There is a strong argument that Burgundy in Eastern France makes some of the greatest white wines found anywhere in the world. While the Chardonnay grape variety is remarkably versatile, and can make exceptional wines in a range of climates, its defining cool climate expression is without doubt currently found across Burgundy. From the steely and incredibly precise minerally styles of Chablis to more generously proportioned examples from further south, Burgundy remains the benchmark by which other international Chardonnays are judged.
What often comes as a surprise is the sheer size of Burgundy. While key vineyards are found in a relatively thin strip surrounding the limestone ridge known as the Côte d’Or or ‘Golden Slope’, the region itself is over 200 kilometres long, stretching from the small outpost of Kimmeridgean Clays to the north in Chablis down to the Mâconnais, which shares a border with Beaujolais. Unsurprisingly, while the wines generally share clear Burgundian DNA of elegance and finesse with generosity of flavour, there is also significant variation.
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One of the great advantages to Burgundy is that it is relatively easy to begin a journey of discovery in this most fascinating region. That is thanks to the local appellation laws that were put in place 90 years ago, which provide a relatively robust framework for quality. While at the pointy end of the spectrum, prices are in the hundreds and even thousands of dollars per bottle, what is often forgotten is that over half the wine made in Burgundy is simply labelled as Bourgogne, is much cheaper, and made to be enjoyable soon after it is bottled. For these wines vines are often planted on soils that are either too fertile or a bit too lean to make great wine. But these wines offer a relatively affordable introduction to the style of local Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is worth noting, as an aside, that the Gamay and Aligote grapes are also grown in the region, although are not used in production in Burgundy’s best wines, but Aligote is beginning to gain a small but significant following.
While white wines are made up and down Burgundy, there are three key regions to explore: Chablis, Côte de Beaune and Mâconnais. While the Côte de Beaune attracts most of the headlines, and visitors, anyone who chooses to purely put their focus here is missing out on not only the chance to taste the thrilling purity found in the greatest Chablis but also the blend of value and quality now found under various Mâcon labels.
For many, Chablis marks a first foray into of white Burgundy. The combination of a catchy name with a beautifully bright and fresh expression of Chardonnay has won legions of fans worldwide. At the lower end of the scale, which is where plenty of supermarket examples exist, Chablis is light weight and refreshing. The mistake many people make is assuming that there is nothing more to Chablis when the reverse is true. Great Chablis from Premier and Grand Cru vineyards delivers both immense power and focus with unmistakable chalky minerality. Combined with impact and mouthfeel, these wines deliver incredibly unique and stylish expressions of Chardonnay. While oak ferment and maturation is used for some wines in Chablis, generally any oak only adds subtly to the overall impression
The Mâconnais at the southern end of Burgundy, and a warmer climate, offers a very different style, with wines that are generous and approachable. Gone are the steely textures and minerality of Chablis to be replaced by fuller flavoured and creamy wines yet still with vibrant acidity that retains their energy and focus. Wines simply labelled as Mâcon are often charming with finely detailed flavours and little more than a whisper of oak. But further up the spectrum in villages such as Viré-Clessé, Saint-Véran and particularly Pouilly-Fuissé, flavour levels and use of oak are amped up to deliver some of the most powerful and richest wines seen in Burgundy.
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But between Chablis and the Mâconnais sits the jewel in the crown - the Côte de Beaune. Here flavour and acidity meld together in a fabulous union particularly in the famous villages of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. But the entire region is not to be missed including villages such as Pernand-Vergelesses, Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Saint-Aubin. Here the wines can also show fabulous complexity and detail, although without quite the raw power of the more fancied names, but the value can be undeniable. In the rarefied world (and price) of Premier and Grand Cru wines from the top villages, there are many truly mesmerizing and thrilling wines to be enjoyed, most of which can improve in bottle over a decade or two. For true Chardonnay fans, these are wines that must be experienced to fully appreciate all this variety has to offer and the unique qualities of Burgundy.
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