High above the Rhône Valley, overlooking the town of Tain-l'Hermitage, sits a small stone chapel. It may look simple and weathered, but for wine lovers it is a very special place. The chapel stands on the famous hill of Hermitage, home to some of the world's finest and longest-lived Syrah wines.
According to local legend, the chapel was built by a knight and hermit named Gaspard de Sterimberg after he returned from the Crusades in the 13th century. He used it as a quiet place to live away from everyday life. After his death, the surrounding vineyards became known as Hermitage, and their wines were already highly regarded.
Today, the vineyards still cover the steep slopes around the chapel. They are an important part of wine history in Australia too. Penfolds' famous Grange was originally called Grange Hermitage, taking its name from these French vineyards. Winemaker Max Schubert was inspired by the great wines of Bordeaux, but he also wanted to create a wine with the power and ageing ability of Hermitage.
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The wines from Hermitage can be remarkable. The soils are tough and rocky, but they produce powerful, complex and long-lived Syrah. Producers such as Jean-Louis Chave and Paul Jaboulet Aîné have helped keep Hermitage among France's most respected wine regions. More recently, Penfolds has even created the Grange La Chapelle blend, bringing together Grange from Australia with La Chapelle from Hermitage – an intriguing meeting of the Old World and New World.
But the Rhône Valley offers much more than Hermitage. Around 50 kilometres to the north are the famous vineyards of Côte Rôtie and Condrieu. Both are built on steep hillsides above the Rhône River. The vineyards are difficult to work, but the wines can be outstanding. Côte Rôtie is best known for Syrah, although some producers also add a small amount of Viognier, a white grape that can give the wines extra perfume and floral character. The region has a very long history of winemaking, dating back to Roman times, but it was only in recent decades that Côte Rôtie became fashionable again.
American wine critic Robert Parker helped bring attention to the region, while producer Marcel Guigal played a major role in promoting its wines around the world. Today, great Côte Rôtie, from the likes of Guigal and Jamet, are highly sought after by wine lovers and collectors.
Next door is Condrieu, which is very different. Here the main grape is Viognier, producing rich and aromatic white wines. They are known for flavours of peach, apricot and flowers. The best examples can be incredibly powerful and generous, although they are generally best enjoyed when relatively young. Producers such as Yves Cuilleron, Domaine Merlin and Domaine Georges Vernay are worth looking for.
Further south, the Rhône Valley takes on a very different character. Here the climate is warmer and the wines are generally made from a blend of different grape varieties. The most famous region is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The vineyards are covered in large, rounded stones that absorb the heat of the sun during the day and release it back to the vines at night. These difficult conditions help the grapes ripen and can produce wines with plenty of flavour and concentration.
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Grenache is the star grape of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, often blended with varieties such as Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Southern Rhône Grenache has a very different personality from the Grenache grown in South Australia with savoury, meaty characters. Some of the producers to look for include Domaine Pierre Usseglio et Fils and Château La Nerthe. For good value, Domaine de La Janasse is also worth seeking out.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape may be the most famous Southern Rhône appellation, but there are plenty of other regions producing excellent wines. Gigondas and Lirac can offer a similar style at generally lower prices, while some of the best value can be found under the simple Côtes du Rhône label.
The Rhône River runs from the Swiss Alps all the way to the Mediterranean, passing through some of France's greatest wine regions along the way. From the fragrant whites of Condrieu and the powerful Syrah of Hermitage to the refinement of Côte Rôtie and the richer, generous blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Rhône offers an enormous variety of wines. For wine lovers, it is a region with plenty to discover – and one that Gaspard de Sterimberg would surely recognise and appreciate.
