In recent years, the fame (and prices) of Burgundy have risen at an astonishing rate in part driven by an almost hysterical adulation for the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Having worked in the fine wine trade for almost 25 years, it has been almost mystifying to watch what has occurred in Burgundy over the last decade with interest in DRC, in particular, having risen to almost mythological levels.
While the fame is not undeserved, as owner of potentially the world’s most famous vineyard, its stratospheric rise in trajectory, particularly in comparison to other estates, and the impact on the reputation of villages in Burgundy, has been fascinating. While DRC and the Grand Crus of Vosne-Romanee and Flagey-Echezeaux are now widely regarded as the undisputable peak of Burgundy, this has not always been the case.
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In fact, the first classification of Burgundy from 1855 by Dr Jules Lavalle had a very different take with only four vineyards judged as Tête de Cuvées: Romanee-Conti of Vosne-Romanee, Clos de Vougeot and the Gevrey twins of Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Beze. As an aside, clearly the Clos de Vougeot, under one owner at the time, had a reputation far superior to its current standing. Musigny, Richebourg, La Tache, Clos de Tart as well as only parts of Romanee-St-Vivant and Corton were included in a secondary tier. On the surface it seems that the rising fortunes of DRC over time have led to a reimagining of quality for vineyards associated with the domaine which has come most obviously at the expense of Gevrey-Chambertin.
Gevrey is not only home to some of Burgundy’s greatest vineyards but is also one of the region’s most historic villages with recently unearthed evidence of vinegrowing dating back to biblical times. It is believed that the renowned Clos de Beze vineyard was first planted soon after the land was donated to Abbey of Beze in 630. The plot next door was reportedly owned by a peasant, Bertin, who also planted vines. It became known as Campus Bertini which morphed into Chambertin. During the 18th century the wines from Chambertin became the favourite of Napoleon Bonaparte, who would only drink five to six year old vintages, heavily diluted with water.
The fact is, despite the rise in reputation of DRC and the greatest vineyards in Vosne-Romanee, Gevrey-Chambertin continues to produce miraculous Burgundies the equal of any other village thanks to a fabulous and unique terroir. Arguably the key component which differentiates Gevrey-Chambertin from other famous villages in the Cote de Nuits, including Vosne-Romanee and Chambolle-Musigny, is the Combe de Lavaux, a dramatic valley that concludes directly above the village and pulls cooler air from higher altitudes into the surrounding vineyards. Many of the village Premier Crus are huddled close to the combe, often at higher altitudes producing finer wines including the very highly regarded Clos St Jacques, commonly regarded as Grand Cru in quality. The grand crus of Chambertin and Clos de Beze, located further to the south, enjoy better solar exposure yet their climate is still tempered by the same cooler air providing a delicious tension between raw power and evocative aromatics. The combe is also the source of a wide variety of soils which have been washed down through the valley over millennia before fanning out through the vineyards below which undoubtedly adds complexity to the wines. This combination of cooler sites and significant soil diversity makes the wines of Gevrey-Chambertin a little reticent and shy as young wines, without the early flamboyance of Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanee and Volnay. However with time they build weight and truly kaleidoscopic beauty, the best of which are almost impossible to top.
Author Gaston Roupnel, a renowned Burgundian historian, perhaps describes Gevrey-Chambertin best of all. “On its own, it is all that is possible in great Burgundy. Tough and powerful like the greatest of Cortons, it has the delicacy of Musigny, the velvet of Romanée, the perfume of a high Clos Vougeot. Its colour is that sombre scarlet which seems to imprison in its garnet reflections all the glory of a setting sun. Taste it: feel in the mouth that full and firm roundness, that substantial flame enveloped by the mat softness of velvet and the aroma of reseda! Chambertin, king of wines!”
While Clos de Beze and Chambertin are the stars, there are many other great vineyards to sample including another six Grand Crus. From the deeply savoury Ruchottes-Chambertin sitting on stonier soils near the combe to the more open-knit Charmes-Chambertin, they all share Gevrey’s combination of power laced with dark earthy and spicy tones. Among the Premier Crus, alongside the revered Clos St Jacques, Les Cazetiers, Aux Combottes and Les Corbeaux are also worth savouring.
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