5
Foillard’s 2009 Morgon Cuvee 3.14 is drinking beautifully at age 12, wafting from the glass with a rich bouquet of mulberries and blackberries framed by hints of sweet spices, orange rind and violet. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a textural attack and a rich, concentrated core of fruit built around ripe, powdery tannins and succulent acids. This has already thrown a substantial deposit, but it’s still saturated in hue and an adolescent in terms of structure.

Deep ruby. Heady, expansive aromas of dark berry compote, incense and potpourri, with a strong mineral component and a hint of licorice. Strikingly concentrated yet lithe, offering sweet blackberry and cherry flavors that turn spicier with air. The floral quality repeats on the finish, which refuses to let up. This wine should repay at least another decade of patience and likely much more than that.

The 2009 Morgon Cuvee 3’14” comes from vines older than 90 years. It has a divine and extraordinarily pure bouquet of dark cherries, maraschino cherry, jasmine tea and limestone that is extremely well-defined. The palate is extremely well-balanced with a 'killer' line of acidity. There is impressive weight in the mouth with a bit of sinew toward the finish, although overall, perhaps the 2010 has slightly more finesse and precision. Still, this is a beautiful Morgon.